Spinach
Spinacia oleracea · baby spinach (young leaves, milder) · perpetual spinach (chard variety, different plant)
Spinach occupies an unusual place in the vegetable kingdom: a leafy green with genuine structural integrity raw, it collapses dramatically when heated, losing roughly 90% of its volume as cellular water is expelled. This transformation — from a full bag of leaves to a small, dense heap in a pan — surprises cooks who have not seen it before. The flavour is mineral, iron-rich and slightly astringent from oxalic acid, which also inhibits calcium absorption.
Mineral, iron-forward and slightly astringent from oxalic acid. A mild green flavour with an earthy, almost metallic note. Baby spinach is milder and sweeter; mature spinach is more assertive. Pairs naturally with nutmeg, lemon, cream, Parmesan and garlic.
Crisp and substantial raw. Collapses completely when heated. Properly squeezed cooked spinach is dense and silky. Inadequately squeezed cooked spinach is watery and dilutes whatever it is added to.
Refrigerate in a bag or container for up to 3 days. Wilts rapidly — use quickly. Baby spinach sold in bags lasts slightly longer. Do not wash until ready to use.
Wash thoroughly — spinach can carry significant grit. For wilting in a pan: add to a pan over medium heat with a few drops of water; the residual water on the leaves is usually sufficient. For raw salads: use only the most tender young leaves and dress at the last moment. Squeeze cooked spinach very firmly to remove as much water as possible before incorporating into pasta, tarts or similar dishes.