The Kitchen Almanac
fats oils

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

EVOO · cold-pressed olive oil · huile d'olive vierge extra (French) · olio extravergine di oliva (Italian)

About

Extra virgin olive oil is the unrefined, cold-pressed juice of the olive fruit — the only cooking fat that is essentially a fruit juice. Its flavour reflects the variety, terroir and harvest timing of the olive: early-harvest oils are intensely green, peppery and bitter (from polyphenols); late-harvest oils are mellower, buttery and rounder. The acidity must be below 0.8% oleic acid for the EVOO designation. It is not, contrary to common belief, unsuitable for cooking — its high polyphenol content provides some stability against oxidation.

Flavour

Varies enormously by origin and harvest time. Generally: fruity, grassy, with peppery-bitter notes at the back of the throat (from oleocanthal, an anti-inflammatory compound). Tuscan oils: robust and peppery. Greek oils: fruity and bold. Ligurian oils: mild and sweet. Spanish oils: often more intense and green.

Texture

Liquid at room temperature, solidifying partially below 10°C. Good EVOO has a slightly viscous, full-bodied quality that distinguishes it from refined oils.

Storage

In a sealed, opaque bottle away from heat and direct light. Olive oil oxidises under heat and UV exposure, turning rancid. A cool cupboard is ideal; the refrigerator is acceptable but causes the oil to solidify (it liquefies again at room temperature without damage). Use within 18 months of pressing.

Preparation

Use for dressings, dipping, finishing, and low-to-medium heat cooking. Contrary to common advice, EVOO can be used for frying — its smoke point is around 180–200°C, which is adequate for most pan-frying. For high-heat searing above 200°C, a neutral oil with a higher smoke point (groundnut, grapeseed) is more appropriate. The best olive oils are best raw, where their flavour is fully expressed.

Seasonality
year-round (oil)new season oil from November (freshest and most pungent)