Aubergine
eggplant (US, Australia) · brinjal (South Asia, South Africa) · Solanum melongena
The aubergine is a sponge — literally. Its flesh is an open, porous foam-like structure that absorbs oil, fat and flavour with remarkable efficiency, making it one of the richest-tasting vegetables in cooked form. Raw, it is unpleasantly bitter from alkaloids (solanine) and astringent in texture. Heat transforms it completely: at 200°C, the flesh becomes silky, sweet and almost creamy, with a natural affinity for smokiness that makes it ideal for charring over an open flame.
Raw: bitter and astringent. Cooked: sweet, mild and almost fatty in its richness. When charred: deeply smoky with a sweetness that develops from caramelisation. Absorbs surrounding flavours very readily.
Porous and sponge-like raw. When roasted or fried in sufficient oil, the flesh becomes silky and yielding, almost custard-like in its richness. Undercooked aubergine is unpleasantly spongy.
Store at room temperature if using within 2 days; refrigerate for up to 5 days. Cold can cause pitting and discolouration. Best used when the skin is taut and the fruit yields slightly under pressure.
No need to salt and drain before cooking (modern varieties are less bitter). Slice or cube and cook immediately. For roasting whole to char: pierce the skin several times, then roast directly on a gas flame or under a very hot grill until the exterior is completely charred and the interior feels soft when pressed. The charred skin peels away to reveal smoky, creamy flesh.